Introducing the Oris Yangtze Jiangtun Limited Edition – a watch that not only tells time but also highlights a pressing environmental issue. Have you ever paused to consider the plight of the Yangtze jiangtun porpoise? If you’re like most people, the answer is likely never. However, Oris aims to change that with their latest release, the Yangtze Jiangtun Limited Edition. This watch continues the Hölstein-based brand's tradition of launching limited editions that support various conservation initiatives. In past articles on Hodinkee, we've explored Oris' collaborations with organizations such as the Billion Oyster Project, Coulson Aviation, and Bracenet, among others. What I find particularly commendable about Oris is their commitment to fostering conversations about these vital issues rather than merely making superficial changes through limited runs of products, such as those crafted from upcycled materials. This principle has been an enduring aspect of Oris' philosophy for many years, and this new edition exemplifies that commitment.
The Yangtze Jiangtun Limited Edition is developed in collaboration with the Changjiang Conservation Foundation, a Chinese organization focused on restoring and protecting the Yangtze River, which holds the title of the longest river in Asia and the third-longest globally. Along with providing a "significant monetary contribution" to the foundation, Oris has donated eight timepieces to aid their efforts, with proceeds from an upcoming benefit auction also directed towards broader river conservation activities. From a narrative standpoint, the spotlight is firmly on the finless porpoise. Interestingly, this initiative has sparked my curiosity, leading me to learn much more about the Yangtze jiangtun than I ever anticipated. If you’re curious enough to read this, you might find yourself intrigued too. This delightful toothed whale, part of the porpoise family, is native to the Yangtze River and tragically stands as the last remaining freshwater marine mammal in China. Thankfully, recent conservation measures have begun to reverse the trend of population decline, with a 2022 study estimating around 1,249 individuals still survive. The hope is that continued efforts will further bolster this population.
Now, let’s delve into the watch itself. Given its tribute to a marine mammal, it feels entirely appropriate that this model takes the form of an Aquis, Oris' contemporary dive watch, which received updates in 2024 for enhanced proportions and ergonomics. For those who prefer more compact divers, this model might disappoint, as it has a diameter of 43.5mm and a thickness of 13.1mm, similar to last year’s New York Harbor II edition. While a lug-to-lug measurement of 51mm is not short by any means, it feels relatively manageable for its size due to the design of the Aquis lugs. I’ve previously inquired with some Oris representatives about why they opt for larger sizes instead of the seemingly more universally accepted 41.5mm variant. Although they've been somewhat reticent on the topic, it seems that the 43.5mm size performs well in terms of sales, and the data speaks volumes.
The dial of the Yangtze Jiangtun edition is truly captivating, featuring a distinctive mother-of-pearl surface in a blue-green hue that mirrors the color of the river. Interestingly, while the base dial is entirely composed of mother-of-pearl, the final design utilizes this shimmering material judiciously, with wavy lines inspired by the sound waves produced by the porpoise's ultrasonic clicks. The remainder of the dial showcases a printed blue-green layer. Some may wish for more mother-of-pearl on a dial that boasts this material, but I believe the current execution is charming; the iridescent streaks create an unconventional yet visually striking effect while maintaining excellent legibility. Observing the dial closely provides the satisfying experience of appreciating the organic texture of the waves, which is skillfully done. If I were to suggest one improvement, I would have loved to see a color-matched date window or at least a metallic frame around the opening for added cohesion.
Reintroducing the tungsten bezel insert—a quirky feature found on some older Aquis models—adds a unique flair. When polished, tungsten offers a glossy sheen akin to ceramic but with a gray metallic appearance. While it does attract fingerprints, it seamlessly integrates with the rest of the case, accentuating the wave-patterned dial. Turning the watch over reveals a delightful engraving of the Yangtze finless porpoise gazing back at you, accompanied by the edition name encircling the outer ring and the individual number out of 1,249 pieces. Priced at $2,900, this watch houses the automatic Sellita SW200-based Caliber 733, offering a power reserve of 41 hours and a frequency of 28,800 VpH. This aligns perfectly with the rest of the Sellita-powered Aquis collection, with a modest $100 premium attributed to the mother-of-pearl dial. I appreciate that Oris continues to unveil intriguing novelties within this price bracket, ensuring that enthusiasts who aren't yet ready to invest in the significantly pricier in-house Caliber 400 options can still enjoy a fantastic timepiece.
On the wrist, this watch is a delightful experience. Yes, it is sizeable, but surprisingly, it wears like the smallest 43.5mm watch I have ever tried. The integrated bracelet design plays a significant role in its wearability, especially on my 6.5-inch wrist, thanks to the screwed-in end links that cascade down from the case's edges. However, shorter end links do lead to a more pronounced dial presence, which is inevitable given the larger diameter. Conversely, the broader diameter allows for ample space on the dial, enabling those mother-of-pearl waves to showcase their natural textures more vividly. Upon reflection, a smaller dial might dilute some of that visual impact. The rest of the watch embodies the classic Aquis aesthetic, featuring a robust silhouette paired with impressive 300-meter water resistance.
With an outstanding release earlier this year featuring the Big Crown Pointer Date "Bullseye," followed by the Yangtze Jiangtun Limited Edition, Oris clearly demonstrates that its offerings under the three-thousand-dollar mark are here to stay. The brand is carving out its own unique niche, and as we venture further into the year, I eagerly anticipate what innovative creations will unfold.
